Re: Is he starting to self wean?
What you describe sounds exactly like what self-weaning should be: a slow, gentle process without refusals from mom. If your LO is getting excited and putting himself in nursing position, then you know best whether or not he still wants to nurse. It sounds to me like he does!
There is no harm in continuing to offer. The benefits of breastfeeding don't magically stop at some predetermined age. You're still transferring immunities and calories, and maintaining your child's trust that his needs will be met. One day your LO will wean himself completely- you'll offer, he'll look, and then keep on playing. Days will go by, and then weeks, and then you'll realize one day that he weaned without you ever having had to do a thing.
Coolest thing my big girl said recently: "How can you tell the world is moving when you are standing on it?"
Coolest thing my little girl sang recently: "I love dat one-two pupples!"